A Basque birthday

The day began quietly with an early start and down the hill into Bilbao. I rode the metro again out of town and began the ride where the roads were better. I am now in the heart of Basque Country which looks pretty much the same although the mountains are getting higher. I started with a few rolling hils and then a turn off the main road across som pretty big 400 meter climbs.

The old and the new, note the windmills that are just beyond this centuries old church below.

This is a very popular cycling area and today I probably saw more bicycles than cars. At each little village I have learned to ask for "la fontana del pueblo". There is always fresh cold water in a very public spot where there is a spigot. Like this.

Any cyclist passing through will stop an get water. I stopped at many and chatted with several. Usually friendly local guys on light fast road bikes out for a daily ride. At one little willage fountana I ate some fresh fruit, bread, cheese and local sausage I had bought in a market and asked several guys about my route. I received unanimous advice to take the coastal route rather than Pamplona and the Pierinis. They all said that the Alps are high, but the Pierinis are almost as high but very wide, and you must keep climbing up and down for days to get through. More on this latter. After the 2nd long climb I descended into the town of Markina a very prosperous Basque town about the size of G Barrington. I had heard there was a nice albergue to stay at so I check it out. I had to show my credentials, i.e. passport and el Camino pass and they noticed I was from NY and that it was my birthday!!! Well the celebration began.

While I sat looking at my map lady who ran the albergue brought over her friends to sing Feliez Complianos. This albergue was definitely not the normal monk like meditative affair. As with many it was in a very old annex to the church with dorm rooming and communal baths, but very old and cool. And after being on my bicycle for 65 miles today all I want is to sleep.

This is the court yard of the albergue, the rooms are on the 2nd and 3rd floors.

But I have learned to expect the unexpected and believe it or not today is the pueblo's annual festival. It is like the Pittsfield 4th of July, the Stockbridge Memorial Day parade and St. Patrick Day in Boston all combined.

Quite a birthday!! As my my spiritual guide and mentor Steve Yarmo said to me "free and on my own, but definitely not alone".

I am thinking of you all at home and love you all. Most of all mi esposa Sarah Hart.