Monday, July 15, 2013

Welcome to France

The day began with an early wake up call and a very quiet ride through San Sebastián. A really lovely city that I hope to come back to along with Bilbao to explore some day with my sweetheart. 


This a sunrise and not a sunset.

To leave the city on the small back roads I like to find, there was a way out I learned of that had me cross over a small river without a bridge.



This was followed by about a mile through an old village consisting of only very small alleys where only a person on foot or bicycle could pass.




The day was off to a great start!! But just when you think you have it made disaster struck. A mechanical failure on my bicycle. The cable for the rear gear shifter broke. I could still ride but only on the lowest rear gear cog. I could shift the front 3gears but without the rear I could not climb anything greater than about a 3% grade. In Spain and for today's ride to the border this would mean a lot of walking up hill. I changed my route and began to limp along. Since I was on main roads now, when I saw a bike path I followed it, only to have it dwindle down to a gravel path and then just a foot trail. By now I was committed and needed to get back to the road. 

Asking directions, a runner said I could get back to the road if I walked on and took the next right turn. About a half mile later, this is what I saw to my right.



Heading straight down!!!!

It turns out this was a washed out stream and the foot trail, now hidden crossed over the wash out and eventually I found the correct right and made it back to the road. After regrouping in the beautiful beach side border town of Hendaye, I dealt with the reality of a broken bicycle on a Sunday when nothing was open. Wanting to ride rather than hang out with a bunch of weekend tourists, I decided to continue on. Now on more main roads with less steep climbs, I found the going surprisingly good.


French roads were great, well marked and for now no hills. I followed a river heading away from the coast along the foot hills of the Pierenies to my west and made some good time. The hills were gradual and though some a bit of a strain, needing to be climbed standing up, I didn't have to walk. I had heard of a great albergue that was a starting point for many walking pilgrims in St. Jean-Pier-de-Port where there was also a bike shop. Although a bit far and although I would arrive late I decided to go for it. With about 30 miles to go at about 6:30, I grew tired of the main highway with a lot of cars now with Sunday traffic returning from the coast and I took a side parallel road on the other side of the river.


It was a beautiful road along the river where people were swimming and rafting, a lot of tourists and some really cool villages, one named Pas de Roland I couldn't miss for my friend Rolland Miller. I had a great swim and felt tired but fine.

Except the only problem now was that there was much more up and down and I had to walk up 6 or more of the steeper hills. Such is the price I pay for the scenery and adventure.

A little late I made it to St. Jean about 8 and with my good karma found a piligramo, they are easy to spot, and followed him to a bed and shower in this old house next to an ever older church. Tomorrow I will take photos of this old walled village up on the hill.


I slept in a bunk right inside the open window upstairs on the right. And drank some wine with a young Austrian of 21 and a young Korean girl who were just starting their walk to Santiago. Both spoke English. Also a French bicyclist was there but none of the French speak English.

Quite an eventful day, as usual.





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