Across the Po to Mantova

I began the day with a very nice breakfast at my B&B in Castill Arquato. As the only guest I got first class service from the mother and daughter who owned the inn.

My room was the upstairs corner and since I was there alone I had the use of the whole floor and this balcony to catch the morning sun and dry my clothes that I wash every night in the shower.

I made a pass through town where I had so much fun the night before .........and took this photo of what had been packed with people playing and crowds watching the tennis, volleyball but most interest with the crowd 3 deep at the bocci ........

I rode east again along the flat and busy valley toward Parma. After about 25 miles I entered Parma a very nice small city. It was a beautiful day, slightly overcast and not at all hot and everyone was out ...... many on bicycles .....

...... bicycles were the main way every one .... young and old ..... men and women ..... got around. And they have the children's bike seats figured out much better than in the US, by putting the child seat up front. Then the kid can see where he is going (not the back of the rider) and even try to steer and they look to be having so much fun.

The rear seat is only used when there are 2 kids, which is often the case.

Hungry I stopped early for a really nice lunch ..... pasta and a stuffed chicken breast with arugula.

..... but I  took half, American style in a doggie bag for an afternoon energy boost since I had a long day planned.

....... a big cathedral in Parma.

I set out northeast across the wide, broad Po River valley about 120 miles wide, that drained all of northern Italy east toward Venice. 

........ The River Po. 

This area I found is the bread basket and fruit basket of Italy. I passed many large flour mills and fields of peaches, pears, tomatoes, melons, zucchini, and more tomatoes. Many times the road was along the top of a dyke when the river was nearby.

Here people were working in the field harvesting.

Now as an asside, I must say a few words about the Italian drivers.

 Along the way, especially in France I had been warned, with many disparaging and critical things being said about the Italian drivers. Well ..... I disagree and think they are great ..... or I might not be alive tonight. 

The same cannot be said for the Italian roads. As background I had a good map today and with the map and my compass I had been finding my way along heading northeast, riding on small back roads heading toward my goal of Mantova. I had to cross the Po and several tributaries several times and was doing well until this .....

...... out of the blue ....... no warning ..... and another cyclist confirmed the bridge was out and I had to backtrack and make a 7 mile detour onto more of a main road. When I got to the main road this is what I had to work with to ride on ......

...... not much ..... And the road was busy with many trucks and busses. If lucky there was room for me and maybe 2 small cars, or me and a truck ...... but me and a car and a truck ..... or 2 trucks ...... no way!!!

But I trusted in the good karma I had been collecting (the subject of a future asside comment about picking up trash) and with no other option forged ahead. With the help of a good tailwind and the whoosh of air and suction from the passing of the big trucks, I worked to keep my speed up, on the theory that when I got hit, it would be less impact and more like a bump from behind than a full frontal or standing impact.

That and the excellent skill of the Italian drivers allowed me to arrive in Mantova safely. It wasn't just luck though because this was the norm and I saw several other cyclists who looked as though this was an every day affair for them.

Mantova was another charming little city with a big square, cathedral and castle. I arrived later than usual because I covered 85 miles taking advantage of the nice tailwind, but being delayed by the detour and 15 bonus miles. The official tourist office was closed.

So to search out a bed I went to the center of town and at "la fountina" I encountered this group of the usual suspects.

....... likely characters who looked as though they knew the local ropes. And sure enough as always in Italy ..... friendly and helpful ...... they not only told me about several places but hopped on their bicycles and led me about town showing me all of the B&B's. 

The B&B they left me at was so bad and sketchy, even below my marginal standards that I went to the hotel on the main square and got a nice room for 60 uro with breakfast.

The view from my room in Mantova.

Tired after another great Italian meal of lasagna and a big salad I went to bed.